Natural and Organic Color Cosmetics

Natural and Organic Color Cosmetics

Going ‘GREEN’

Why natural or organic cosmetics?

Consumers today are more health conscious .As more people become more concerned with the purity and freshness of the food they eat, they have also become aware about the products they use on their hair, face and body.
There is a growing fearful perception of potential carcinogenic effects in using certain chemicals. (e.g. parabens or lead in lipsticks) Natural and Organic products offer a ‘safer’ alternative to intimidating and un-pronounceable sounding ingredients.
Natural and Organic are synonymous with being ‘wholesome and good’ - not only for one’s health, but also in respecting and conserving the earth’s resources and supporting humanitarian causes.



For the cosmetic chemist. . .
There is money to be made!
The market for natural and organic cosmetics is growing at an impressive rate
Since 2001 this market continues to grow by figures around 25%.
Projected US cosmetics market in 2009 - $7.9 billion
The trend in natural / organic products will inevitably effect all of us in the cosmetic industry in one way or another (if it hasn’t already) as more companies enter into this trend to stay competitive




Natural vs. Organic

What’s the difference?

Market examples



Burt’s Beeswax
Lip Balm
Ingredients:-Bees Wax, Coconut Oil, Sunflower Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol (vitamin E), Lanolin, Peppermint Oil, Comfrey Root Extract, Rosemary Extract




Eco Lip Care Balm
Ingredients:-Olea Europaea (Olive oil*), Cera Alba (Bees Wax), Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa butter), Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea butter*), Buxus Chinensis
(Jojoba oil*), Camelia Sinensis (Green Tea extract*), Tocopherol ( Vitamin E), Vanilla Plantifolia (Vanilla), Punica Granatum
(Pomegranate seed oil).





Both contain ingredients from common ‘natural’ sources with similar composition, but what’s the difference?


‘Natural’

What does it mean?

The term ‘natural’ is a subjective term, thus, it is hard to understand what it really means to both the consumer and the Cosmetic Chemist.
It is not regulated by the FDA so no legal definition exists.


Let’s look at some definitions of ‘Natural’:

Encyclopedia of Common Natural Ingredients

“A product that is derived from plant, animal, or microbial sources, primarily through physical processing, sometimes facilitated by simple chemical reactions such as acidification, basification, ion exchange and hydrolysis…These chemical processes do not drastically alter the chemical structure of the natural product to be isolated.”

US Food and Drug Administration

“Ingredients extracted directly from plants or animal products as opposed to being produced synthetically”

US Department of Agriculture (USDA)

Only applies to meat and poultry –
“those products that carry the ‘natural’ claim must not contain any artificial flavoring, color ingredients, chemical preservatives, or artificial or synthetic ingredients and are only ‘minimally processed’ (as defined by the USDA). . As a process that does not…alter the raw product”


Much of how products are formulated and marketed relies on the consumer’s perception of being ‘Natural’ :

1. Materials present by nature
2, Produced my minimal processing
3. Grown, harvested and processed in an ecological manner
4. Free of petrochemicals (eg. Polyethylene, PG)
5. Not exposed to irradiation (microbiological purposes)
6. Do not contain synthetic ingredients
7. Do not contain artificial colorants, flavoring or chemical preservatives (i.e. parabens)


What does it mean? – Some notes to think about

There are many similarities - both subjectively and formally - These definitions can even be applied to organic materials. But would you agree - that something ‘natural’ does not mean it is ‘organic’, but . . . ‘organic’ materials are ‘natural’.
In processing natural materials (which most are) impurities are introduced that make them different than their natural counterpart– Is that ingredient still considered natural?


The concept of being natural is easily sold through presentation and packaging. With the confusion in defining the term, the industry markets natural products in different ways that makes it difficult to clearly identify what benefits the product offers.
Let’s take a look at some concepts and how they are used to make the ‘natural’ claim . . .


‘Natural’

What does it mean?


“Everything comes from something natural”
Most consumers agree that most things come from natural sources, so terms such as ‘derived from’ or ‘naturally derived’ ingredients look appealing.

Kiss My Face Natural Tinted Moisturizer

• Protects against UVA & UVB rays with natural sun block SPF 8
• Enriched with Ester C
• Oil free moisture
• Sheer coverage without FD&C dyes
• No animal testing
• pH Balanced
100% Biodegradable


Active Ingredients: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (7.50%), Titanium Dioxide (3.0%)
Inactive Ingredients: Water, Glyceryl Caprylate, Glyceryl Stearate, Sorbitan Stearate, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Polysorbate 60, Kaolin, Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine, Calcium Ascorbate Fine Powder (Ester C), Lecithin, Bentonite, Mica, Iron Oxides, Sorbic Acid, 1, 2 Hexanediot/Caprylyl Glycol, Trisodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate


Let’s read the fine print:
From the ‘Kiss My Face’ Glossary – Titanium Dioxide: naturally derived, an inert, white earth mineral, reflects, blocks and scatters sunlight and, as such, is a natural broad spectrum (both UVB and UVA) physical sunscreen. FDA approved.


The use of one or two ‘natural’ ingredients can imply that the whole product is ‘natural’. Thus, a product that ‘contains’ or is ‘free- of’ something is easily misleading. (eg. ‘contains Vitamin E’)



The Supernatural Airbrushed Canvas SPF 15

The lightweight, virtually mistake proof approach to foundation makeup is ideal for all skin types because it is talc-free, fragrance-free, paraben-free, water-free and oil-free

A typical INCI

Active Ingredient: Zinc Oxide (5.196%). Other Ingredients: Bismuth Oxychloride (CI 77163), Iron Oxides (CI 77491, 77492, 77499), Mica (CI 77019), Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Caprylyl Glycol, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Phenoxyethanol, Silica, Sodium Dehydroacetate


‘Natural’

What about pigments?

Typical colorants used in color cosmetics are synthetic – meaning they are synthesized by chemical reactions from simpler compounds or elements. In addition, they are typically irradiated for microbes which disagrees with some definitions of ‘natural and organic’.
E.g. - Iron Oxides and Titanium Dioxide do not exist naturally, although they are synthesized from natural elements.
Many agree that materials, such as Mica, are naturally sourced (mined), so it can be considered an mineral and is responsible for the “Mineral” claim in makeup and powders.
Thus, as pigments are not considered ‘natural’ by definition, highly pigmented cosmetics can be manipulated to be acceptable in a natural product, but difficult to claim in an organic.



'Natural’

Setting the Standards

As you can see, without regulation of the term, it is easy for some companies to use ‘puffery’ and market their products as being natural although they contain little natural ingredients. Efforts are being made within the US and the European Market to set standards in defining what it means for a product to be natural. Burt’s Bees has chaired a group in association with the Natural Products Association (NPA) to create guidelines in defining natural products for the industry with the expectations: To make the concept of ‘being natural’ comprehensible to the consumer To develop a seal that identifies natural products



Organic

Setting the Standards

The Organic market is continually becoming more standardized (not to be confused with regulated) with the support of independent and governmental organizations world wide.
There are many emerging groups within the EU and US that work to meet Organic guidelines within their jurisdiction, but for our purposes, we will concentrate on their two main groups

US Department of Agriculture / National Organic Program (NOP)

European Control and Certification Organization

Organic

Setting the US Standards


USDA NOP
For Products sold in the US, the US Department of Agriculture’s National Organic Program (NOP) gives approval to NOP-approved agents to grant their seal to products given that the product falls under one of the following conditions:

‘100% Organic’
All ingredients are organic.
USDA logo permitted.
‘Organic’
Minimum 95% of ingredients are certified as Organic.
USDA logo permitted.

‘Made with Organic Ingredients’
70% – 94% of the ingredients are Organic. USDA logo NOT permitted.
Use of the term ‘Organic’ on the ingredient panel – as in ‘made with Organic Algae Extract’
Less than 70% Organic ingredients in the finished product. USDA logo NOT permitted.



A closer look at the market place

USDA / NOP Organically certified – (97%)

“Epiphany here – shouldn't your lip therapy be made from the purest, most delicious organic ingredients? We sure think so. Moisture-nourishing Organic Shea and Cocoa Butters and Organic Sunflower, Safflower, Palm, Coconut and Vanilla Oils plant a great big kiss of softness and smoothness to make dry lips feel great.”

Organic

Setting the EU Standards

ECOCERT

A private food certifier in the European Union that is registered with the French government and is the standard in France but rapidly becoming more recognized throughout the EU and other countries over the world.
Ecocert has two levels of certification and stricter standards in terms of Organic content consisting of 3 requirements:
Natural / Naturally derived ingredients (including water)= 95%
Plant Ingredients must be Certified Organic= 95/50% (e.g. Sunflower oil)
Finished product ingredients (less water) must be Certified Organic= 10/5%

ORGANIC
95% natural ingredients / 95% Organic Plant Ingredients / 10% Finished product ingredients

ECOLOGICAL
95% natural ingredients / 50% Organic Plant Ingredients / 5% Finished product ingredients


Organic

A closer look at the market place
ECOCERT certified

Eco Lip Care Balm
Ingredients:-Olea Europaea (Olive oil*), Cera Alba (Bees Wax), Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa butter), Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea butter*), Buxus Chinensis (Jojoba oil*), Camelia Sinensis (Green Tea extract*), Tocopherol ( Vitamin E), Vanilla Plantifolia (Vanilla), Punica Granatum (Pomegranate seed oil).

Organic

Just some other seals to look for :

US non-profit organization whose purpose is to identify and promote ‘green’/ eco-friendly products

Ecoflower / Ecolabel: EU non-governmental org. that identifies and promotes green oriented EU products

BDIH: non-governmental org in Germany whose seal is recognized by many EU countries

The allure of a stamp or seal reflect the integrity of the product. It is a 3rd party accreditation that your product meets certain principles

The type of seal that a company chooses depends on what they want to convey about a product (eco-friendly, organic) and it is possible (and common) to have more than one seal or certification.


Natural vs. Organic

Where do we stand?

As color cosmetics have found their way into the ‘natural’ market, the same marketing strategies are true in the Organics market, where using some Organic ingredients is enough for the ‘Organic’ claim.
In other instances, meeting other criteria for other certification groups can give you a seal worthy of being called Organic, although regulations my not be similar


Organic Lipstick

ECO Lipstick delivers vibrant and natural colour compostions. Soothing Safflower, Beeswax, Vitamin E and organic Castor Oil provide antioxidant and nourishing properties for soft and smooth lips. Net Weight 0.14oz

Ingredients: Caprylic Capric Triglyceride, Safflower Oil, Castor Oil, Jojoba Oil, Cera Carnauba, Natural Beeswax, Sorbitan Olivate, Honeysuckle Extract Candelilla Cera, Natural Vitamin E Acetate, Orange Oil. May Contain: Ci77019; Ci77491, Ci77492; Ci77499; Ci75470; Ci77019; Ci77163; Ci77742; Ci77891.


“NVEY ECO Make-up is OFC Certified Organic [Organic Food Chain Certificate Number #0464]. Unlike natural labelled products, we have had to meet a strict organic certifying standard in all ingredients and processes we use, which prohibits us from using some ingredients used in natural products such as talc. We are also independently audited for quality by OFC. “


Conclusion:
• Generally, the quality of a cosmetic suffers as it goes from standard to natural to organic as organic ingredients are limited and costly.
• As more independent organizations that monitor organic standards become more recognized, their seals and certifications can signify different levels of being ‘natural’ or more specifically, being ‘green’.
• It is most important to note that with all cosmetics, it is the responsibility of the manufacturer to ensure that all requirements are met with regard to certifications and claims you intend to display on your label
• Lastly, as the industry strives to unify in defining and regulating standards for ‘Natural’ and ‘Organic’ products, we, as formulators / regulatory agents / marketers and consumers must understand our role in appropriately defining the benefits and attributes of what makes our product ‘green’

The End